It seems that the owners here have thought of every tiny detail: the indoor area is a constant serenade of calming music, the wooded backyard has trees perfectly spaced to hang half a dozen hammocks, a tiny brook runs through the outdoor garden to ensure the only sound is falling water, and most importantly there's an on-site restaurant serving up delicious food and homemade beer. As I sunk into a hammock just minutes after arriving, a deep feeling of inner calm washed over me, a stark contrast to the hubbub of the city and the pulsating beats of music that seemed to constantly permeate our campsite. The trees blanketed me in shade throughout a scorching afternoon, ensuring that depending which way the wind blew I was subject to the smells of either pine trees, lavender flowers, or eucalyptus leaves. 

Flanked on all sides by luscious green mountains heavily dominated by tree cover, the beautiful setting of Futaleufu was instantly a refreshing sight to our worn bodies after four full days of hitchhiking. The fresh mountain air was crisp, cool, and inviting, welcoming us to a gorgeous place. Juxtaposed against the chilled out vibe of the town is the true reason why most people find themselves here, where normal civilization feels so far away: the roaring Futaleufu river. The river rolls through the surrounding valley and is one of the best in the world for adventure sports like rafting and white-water kayaking, drawing tourists and professional adventure seekers from all over the globe. 

Before even finding a campsite, we were whisked away on a boat tour to the city’s main attraction: Las Capillas de Marmol (The Marble Chapels). Over millions of years, the imperceptibly slow erosion of the lake cutting into nearby stone has caused nature to carve out the most unbelievable caverns my eyes have ever seen. Marble white rocks hang precipitously over openings wide enough for boats and kayaks to navigate directly through, allowing us to get up close and personal with the smooth rocks and the perfect reflection along the still water. 

Like a broken foot protruding off the leg that is South America, Tierra del Fuego is one of the most rugged and wild lands that man has ever civilized. It was originally named for the incessant bonfires that naked local tribes burned to stay alive through their grueling winters, but unfortunately Spanish colonization largely exterminated their culture and languages. After crossing the Strait we worked our way across unmarked dirt roads, the landscape flat for as long as the eye could see without any signs of civilization

In the morning light we pulled into the port of Balmaceda, and what a glorious site it was. Sun-draped in the morning, with placed waters reflecting the sun’s light, it was surrounded by numerous islands of mossy green rocks. Unexplored forests abounded in the background and right in front of us there were calm sandy beaches with waves gently lapping at the surface. The only sign of civilization was a roughly built gangway sticking out into the secluded bay; if there’s a slice of paradise left, this is it. 

Friday dawned as a completely different day. From our hillside perch we head a gorgeous vista of the one thing we desired most for the hike back the trailhead: sunshine, and plenty of it! The wave still crashed on the rocks with reckless abandon, but the wind had ceased its incessant howling and left us with the dawning of a gorgeous day in Chiloe’s remote wilderness.