Seeing as it was only 10AM I should have been surprised my friends were ready to start drinking, but then I noticed they were still wearing the same clothes from yesterday and clearly hadn’t been home. I happily forked over the pesos (less than 25 cents), which kicked off an authentic example of Chilean hospitality. For the next six hours we walked around almost every street the tiny pueblo has to offer, as I was treated to the cheapest and most insightful local walking tour San Pedro has to offer. They showed me where to buy the cheapest food, the most delicious empanadas, and some of their favorite spots to just hang out and take in astounding views of the ring of Volcanoes around the desert.
Stunning Sucre & Precarious Potosi
After scoping the tourism options in town under the guidance of the gregarious Marco, I opted to split the city’s main attractions: one day of exploring outdoors and another the city’s culture. After 10 months of traveling, I’m not going to lie: there is such a thing as traveler’s fatigue. Eventually all the markets, plazas, and churches in South America appear similar. But it quickly became apparent that Sucre is one of the most beautiful cities in South America.
Sweltering Swamplands
Five minutes after sunrise we pulled in to the bus terminal in Trinidad, outpost to the Rio Mamoré, one of the strongest rivers in the Amazon. At this point we were completely removed from the trappings of the so-called “Gringo Trail” and had very little information to base our decisions off, but we had our sights set on renting a boat. In Trinidad we tried a few tourism offices but eventually hopped on motorcycle taxis and headed straight for the source of the river, where we heard better deals could be had. In Cochabamba we were quoted $611 USD; once we got to Trinidad it was down to $150 for a 3 day trip; by the time we pulled into a port and asked around until we found a boat driver, it was $40.
The Land Before Time
Once on the streets of Cochabamba, the hunt for empanadas was on. Quickly we found a few street carts and indulged ourselves, but we were also greeted by an unexpected sight: we landed right in the middle of a parade! Just as I finished my second empanada the square we were in exploded with sound, as a band right next to us heralded the start of a massive march. It turns out Monday was the anniversary of Cochabambian independence, and what followed for the next few hours was a show of local pride nothing short of magnificent.
Six Thousand Eighty-Eight
The snow and glaciers of the mountain range came into view. Directly ahead of us lay the gorgeous Potosi and to our right was the imposing Illimani, a monolith in its own right at 6400 meters. As we approached the mountain my pulse noticeably quickened. Maybe it was the 1000 meter elevation gain between the city and base camp, but as I was staring at the massive glacier adorning the mountaintop for the first time nerves started to hit me: was I really going to try and climb that? With my own two feet?
Wild and Wonderful
After trying yet failing to break the land speed record, we bussed to a turnoff point for a dirt path. Here was where the real fun began. For the next two hours we bumped downhill, losing feeling in our hands and arms from the intensity of rolling over rocks at such a high velocity. On our left the entire time lay vertical drop offs, some hundreds of meters to the bottom. Despite the initial trepidation of knowing that one wrong move could be our last, we started getting more comfortable and accelerating into the steep turns. Soon we were gaining speed with reckless abandon, all the while trying to sneak glances at the mountainous scenery.
Basking in Bolivia
On Monday I was still cold when I woke up at 6:30 for a day trip to some of the islands that dot Lake Titicaca. Stretching 189 KM across and spanning a volume of 58,000 KM, Lake Titicaca is one of those sights that exudes magnificence simply in its sheer size. Upon disembarking from the dock, our boat drifted through the deep blue waters, touched only by groups of tall reeds sticking out of the surface. We followed these formations out into the open water; just a half hour boat ride from civilization lay the first of Los Uros, the lake’s legendary floating islands.
Canyon Country
Just as the first rays of sunlight shone through over a mountain in the distance I hit the summit. Sweaty yet still cold, triumphant yet delirious, I perched myself on a rock and took in the stunning view of the valley below, our starting point now invisible at the bottom of the earth's deep chasm. Over the next half hour over a hundred hikers straggled in, each one feeling accomplished after having gained over 1200 meters in altitude before 8 AM. On the way back to Arequipa we pulled over for a couple of breaks, including a much needed hour-long soak at a hot springs, a pair of awe-inspiring views of the canyon and its surrounding volcanoes, and an entire hillside dotted with llamas and alpacas grazing in the high altitude grasslands.
An Oasis in The Desert
Outside of lounging and relaxing, there isn't much to do during in Huacachina except take the requisite trip that everyone offers to go sand boarding on the nearby dunes. With the sun emanating off the massive dunes, we hopped in a boogie and set off out of town, quickly accelerating as we veered off road. Our driver must have thought he was playing Mario Kart, as we set off on a veritable roller coaster ride up and over the hills as the car careened down sheer vertical drops and drifted through turns, stoking our adrenaline. After about an hour we stopped at one of the higher points in the nearby vicinity to snap some photos, taking in the eery feeling of the desert that made it feel like we had been transported to another planet.
¡Todo es Posible!
The visual reward upon making it to the top of the Union Pass at 4750 meters made every thigh-busting step worth it. Almost the entire 360 degree view included the glacier-topped peaks that give the Cordillera Blanca its name. The ridge line adjoining the two summits stretched for kilometers in both directions, adorned by snow drifts that appeared ready to plunge into the laguna just below. As I waited for the rest of the group to reach the summit I jumped along the ridge line to enjoy the various vantage points, yelling down in encouragement the calling card for the Cordillera that one of the group members, Paul, had taught us the previous day: “Todo es posible….nada es seguro” ("Anything is possible…nothing is safe").
A Farewell to Ecuador
A tiny little outpost of town that once served as a retreat destination for Incan royalty, Vilcabamba was dubbed “The Valley of Longevity” in the 1980’s due to many of its inhabitants claiming to be over 100 years old. Although those claims were later debunked by researchers, most of the hostels and tiny shops in town have capitalized on the marketing opportunity, dubbing themselves with names like “Shop of Eternal Youth”, even though they still sell Doritos, beer, and Coca-Cola. In fact, the entire surrounding area has the same calming vibe of Bali lifestyle, complete with beautiful scenery, happy locals, and plenty of meditation, yoga, and sacred healing classes.
Pura Vida: Montañita
Montañita is Ecuador's premier beach destination. The surfer vibe promotes a relaxed environment and the small town is popular with both long-term backpackers and local weekenders to catch some sun and sand. In fact, it reeks of some of the same quirks as Southeast Asia's best tourism destinations. At night neon lights and deep house beats permeate through the night, ensuring that getting to sleep before dawn is downright impossible. During the day the streets are lined with handmade jewelry sellers and tiny mini-markets selling mostly beer, chips, and cookies. There's even a requisite alley of breakfast street food vendors, all with different versions of the same menu: pancakes, omelettes, sandwiches, and fruit shakes.
Ecuadorian Adventure Time
Hemmed in by luscious green cliffs and constantly covered by clouds that drift down to obscure the epic mountain views, our arrival in Banos at first seemed to usher in a period of never-ending rain. After getting continuously soaked in the rainforest, Steve and I were eager for a change of pace but unfortunately during our first few days in the Andean mountains we couldn't seem to turn a corner without encountering another downpour.
Into The Jungle
The boat ride into basecamp seemed more like going to a zoo in a boat or going on a ride at Disney Animal Kingdom. One thing is for sure: it felt completely surreal. As the rain began to lighten intermittently, Romula began stopping the boat every few minutes, pointing out no less than four different species of monkeys, toucans, bats, owls, and even an adolescent Anaconda.
A Week Full of Quito
Quito is a massive, energetic city filled with culture, architecture, and nightlife. Perched in the Andes over 9,000 feet above sea level, the city will quite literally take your breath away. With a population of almost 3 million, the Ecuadorian capitol pulsates with energy from the opening of the central market at 6am to the closing of the bars and discotecas in the Mariscal neighborhood at 3am.
Lindo Mindo
Immediately upon arriving at La Casa de Cecilia, a group of tiny wooden houses built on the edge of a nearby stream, the sights, sounds, and smells of Mindo began to refresh my spirit. The sound of tumbling water permeates through the entire property, making for a calming undertone. On the porch are a set of hammocks, perfect for binge-reading a book and relaxing, taking in a few deep breaths of the crisp mountain air.
Colombia's Great Outdoors
If you asked a random stranger what they associate with Colombia, motifs like coffee, salsa music, and drug trafficking might come up. But I'd like to use the photos I've taken over the course of the last week to argue for a different calling card: the great outdoors. On the way from the coffee growing region of Salento to the tranquilo streets of San Agustin (with a pitstop in the decidedly urban Cali), hiking and biking through Southern Colombia was a feat for the eyes.
The Pride of The Paisas
Instead of listing off facts and dates, our tour guide Pablo made the city come alive with enchanting stories of how the Paisas, the people of Medellin and the surrounding area, developed their prideful attitudes. Spanning back as far as the original European settlers of the land, Pablo explained how the area was geographically isolated, the political history of the notorious Colombian conflict, why "your parents are scared you're traveling in Colombia", and the triumphant tale of the country today, a place that is surely on the rise both socially and economically.
Colombia: Chaotic and Complex
The definitive northern point of the South American backpacker trail, Santa Marta is a juxtaposition of contradictions. At the popular "Dreamer Hostel” where most travelers stay, one can check in, drop their heavy bags in one of the dormitories, grab a beer and lounge poolside for days at a time. With its English-speaking staff and Western food, the Dreamer is an oasis of comfort and relaxation in an otherwise hot, dirty, and developing town
¡Buenos Días de Colombia!
Last Friday I boarded a flight to South America, starting the next leg of my journey in Cartagena, Columbia. Having survived an endless summer in Southeast Asia and August heatwaves in Washington, D.C. I thought I could handle anything went it comes to heat. But as soon I stepped off the air-conditioned plane and onto the tarmac in Cartagena, I realized how ignorant I was to the prospect of Columbian heat. Immediately, it felt as though I had stepped straight into an oven and the sweltering heat began to permeate directly through my skin.